Yesterday, as luck would have it, began the first Siberian Wind that Florence has ever experienced. (I made that up, but I’m sure it’s true) After excavating myself from my bed and into the new Bridal Suite which is (I hope) my permanent quarters (you can see the Residenza Betta on line) and a gift from Elisabetta to the woman she treats as a daughter (me) who is the same age as her mother, I had breakfast. Determined to be the best hostess ever known, my darling E finally (having exhausted all efforts to serve me a hot drink) offered me hot milk which was a wild success! My breakfast currently consists of a weight watcher’s nightmare: sweet croissants, nutellla, Italian toast, nutella, and very sour yogurt. I eat the yogurt out of duty, because it is the only thing good for me.
I then retired to my room to begin my great writing adventure. I wrote steadily until I judged it time to shower and wash my hair (about 1 pm). After accomplishing this, I heard Elisabetta at the door and she said she had made me lunch—definitely an extra! Two courses of course. Pasta with tomato sauce and what must have been an expensive steak, cut up with vegetables and drowned in tomato sauce. I felt somewhat like a stuffed turkey, but still craved something sweet. Soooooo…..it was off to the market in the Siberian Wind. I wore: long underwear, a turtleneck and jeans, a sweater, a wool scarf and my new leather jacket (thank Heavens—I know now I was inspired to buy that jacket to save my life!) I purchased: look-alike Dove ice cream bars, an ice cream pie, cookies, a chocolate bar, muesli and yogurt. Oh and pear juice.
Feeling just the tiniest bit guilty, I ate only the chocolate bar when I finally reached my room. There, I discovered that my Chapter GOD AND MICHELANGELO just wasn’t going to do. (My editor, dear Lisa Hawkins had already informed of this). I proceeded to go into a Zen mode where I was totally unaware of myself and took on the identity of the scorned wife, MacKenzie. I had decided the scorned wife was a cliche, especially a pitiful one, so I was working on making her interesting. I don’t know if it was the Bridal Suite, Elisabetta’s cooking, the Siberian Wind, or an excess of chocolate, but I worked steadily until 8:30 and surprised myself completely at the journey I took. I was supposed to go to dinner with Cosimo and the lovely Adriana, however they were late and I was exhausted from my creative ramblings, so I declined and went to bed at 9:00.
The Great Adventure
I woke at 8, determined to go to church which is way the heck on the other side of Florence in what looks like a poor district (judging from the grafitti). Of course, my Italian mama has never heard of this church and looks slightly worried as she pours my hot milk. I assure her I have been there many times, and will have no trouble negotiating public transit. She tells me the (Siberian) wind is still blowing. I show her all my layers of clothing and tell her I will be okay. I leave her with a cheery ciao! for what I think is the bus stop. After half an hour waiting in Siberia, I realize I must be misataken. According to my watch, the meeting will begin in 5 minutes. I acknowledge defeat, walking back to E’s and begging her (over the intercom outside the door) to call m a taxi. Taxi arrives. Somehow we make it to church on time, though it costs me about $15. We sing all my favorite hymns, and oh how that pitifully small congregation can sing!. The thing I came for, of course, was the sacrament, and that was lovely. Then I sat through three talks I couldn’t understand, worrying a bit about how to get home. I set out, determined to find the right bus stop, but after canvassing two blocks went back into the church. Luckily an American girl from CA was there to show me the way to the stop for Bus 20. So. I wait in the Siberian Wind for at least 30 minutes until it shows up. I get on the bus, punch my ticket properly, and sit down in what I found out later (by deciphering the Italian) was the handicapped seat.
Our journey began. At first, I recognized the landmarks I had seen through the taxi windows. I was looking for something that would show me where to get off. I stood as I recognized the Via Nazionale—the street that goes from my B & B to the center of Old Florence. The bus wheeled around a corner without stopping and I was thrown back into my seat. He didn’t stop again until we were in a completely foreign neighborhood. I was just resigning myself that I would have to go completely around the bus route again and somehow manage to make him stop for me before we got to the Via Nazionale when he stopped the bus in the middle of the road, opened the doors and climbed out, walking away from a bus full of irate Italians. All day people had been mistaking me for an Italian (owing of course to my classy jacket) and they still did so, expressing their indignation freely to me in what I am sure was immoderate language. Someone eventually came and started up the bus (I hadn’t seen the driver’s face so I don’t know if it was him or another driver). We drove on and the bus stopped and everyone got off but me. I cowered in a seat out of view, hoping he wouldn’t toss me out into the Siberian Wind. However, soon we were off. It began to look as though we were entering the Old City again, so I kept my eyes peeled. We came to Via Lorenzo il Magnifico. Fortunately, I knew Lorenzo was the Medici Patron of the Renaissance and no paltry, unimportant street would have been named after him. This must be near the city center! So I got off the bus with only my faith in history to assure me I was where I wanted to be. As I drew my scarf over my ears I realized that about half a mile down the boulevard was my familiar intersection. By this time it was 2:00 and I was starved and not at all sure what I could find to eat on Sunday. Upon reaching the Via Nazionale (which is the only street in Florence I know) I resolutely turned away from my B & B and went in search of an open restaurant. To my relief, David’s and my favorite trattoria was open. I ate a very hearty lunch, walked home through the Siberian Wind and fell asleep at 4:00, not waking until 7:00.
Not my typical Sabbath, but at least I got to church! And, as my husband will tell you, this adventure was completely in keeping with my identity as a Gibson girl. All that was missing was my sister to laugh with me.