Literally. I visited two cities on the tops of hills and was climbing up or down the entire day. After the weekend with Morgan, it was a little much, and I’m afraid I od’ed on ibuprofen, but it’s the only thing that saved my life and prevented homicide against my peppy tour guide.
The first place we visited was just plain amazing, and even with the pain I was in, I was totally entranced. It is called San Gomignano and has extremely steep streets leading up to medieval skyscrapers! I am not joking. From a distance, you see all these towers on top of a hill! The buses and cars aren’t allowed, so it was very quiet with us early tourists. The thing I hope I remember forever is the incredible view. Tuscany is gorgeous at any time, but seen from a lofty hill with fog still wafting through the valleys, orchards and vineyards while presided over by periwinkle sky and lovely warm sun (remember it’s January) it’s absolute heaven. I discovered a very humble watercolorist with a huge talent. His prices were so modest, and his paintings so minimalist and capturing Tuscany so perfectly, I wanted to buy his biggest one and have it sent home. But better instincts prevailed. With all of David’s photos we have no room to properly display it. I did buy three tiny little reproductions (you couldn’t tell them from the originals, I swear), and boy Sandra and Alana are you ever in for a treat. I could see both of you sitting against that fortress wall, painting and painting and painting. The landscape changes continually with the weather, the light, and the season. I think you’d both better book some rooms and stay for a year, build up a portfolio and have a show!
After we left this little place (which seems to have no source of income), we went to Siena, best known for its twice a year Palio, where all the houses of Siena buy horses and hire jockeys, rig them out in their “house” colors and stand in the middle of the town square and in all the windows looking out on it, as the horses race three times around the huge courtyard. Dirty play is encouraged. It is all very dangerous and the Sienese seem to adore it. I purchased a flag and patch with a dragon on it for grandson Jack, thinking he could ride his rocking horse. I also got a book for him with pictures and the whole history. But then I went and lost the flag somewhere. Dag nab it!
I passed my “free time” by eating buschetta, soup, and my first gelato of this trip. I then visited souvenir shops and bought postcards (I have no faith in myself with the camera) and the things for Jack, and some Tuscan cookery books. Then, to my immense relief I spotted a Pharmacia across the square. I hobbled over there and bought ibuprofen and sat down to take it with a cup of hot chocolate. By the time the tour was set to begin I was in better shape. I truly enjoyed the beautiful Siena cathedral. It’s gorgeous gothic exterior is good enough to eat, but the inside blows your mind. It looks like it was imported from the middle east. It is black and white striped marble! One row of white, one row of black on the walls and columns. It is also the only catherdral I have ever seen without a crucifix at the altar. There was an amazing library with illuminated manuscripts and lovely Rubenesque frescoes. The gift shop was in a church, heavily decorated with gold, which was a surprise.
I thought once I made the tortuous trip down the hill to the bus that my troubles were over. I felt significantly improved after the 1 1/2 hr. drive back to Florence. However, once aboard my trusty city bus, there was a orange sign that said something about Lorenz il Magnifico—my stop. Troubled, I asked the bus driver, who apparently knows no history, for he dumped me off at via Leanardo da Vinci. There it was, night in Florence, and me completely lost in a quiet neighborhood. I met one of those charming young Italian men, who tried his best to help me with his computer, but acknowledged that getting from there to Via Poliziano was a virtual impossibility, even if I could walk. I did what any woman would have done in such a crisis. I bought a chocolate bar. Exhibiting the tenderness I have come to expect these young men to show to aged women, he gave me a gift, a beautifully packaged little bunch of dark chocolate candies. No Sir Lancelot this time, but I felt more confident, heading for an obviously busy square in search of a taxi. I was finally reduced to entering a restaurant and asking for them to call one for me. My hero in the white cab arrived, and after money changed hands, I was duly delivered to 9 via Poliano,where he even got out of the cab and opened the door for me! As soon as I was upstairs, I began to boil water for a huge cup of cammomile tea and simultaneously called my husband. Pledging not to fuss over me when this trip began, he congratulated me for my presence of mind.
Tomorrow I am planning a day working on my novel while lying on my heating pad. At some point I will have to venture out to the market for sustenance, but that can be delayed as long as possible. Elisabetta very kindly bought me cornflakes (which I secretly loathe) but which she mistook for muesli (which she had never laid eyes on before). If I eat a lot of yogurt and a bowl of cornflakes I will make it til one o’clock, and hopefully my body parts will be restored.
I DON’T UNDERSTAND WHY JUST AS MY MIND GETS FIXED, MY BODY HAS TO GO!!!!! Kindly register my complaint with the universe.
Two items of interest:
Tomorrow on http://ggvandagriff.com/contest, the first of the Alex and Briggie trivia questions will appear, as I begin the “magical mystery tour.” The winner will enter a drawing and after two weeks, I will choose a winner to receive a souvenir from Florence — a scarf, a bit of jewelry, etc.
Also, tomorrow on Whitneyawards. com, we will see if Pieces of Paris is chosen as a Whitney Finalist. (I have no fingernails left)